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What sort of peel speeds are people using...I am working out some formula and am curious what people have found to work well.
I started at F80 (metric) but have gone a slow as F20...I want fine structures to print well. (not break off)
I am sure this is somewhat printer design related...I am using .1mm FEP as the Vat Floor, with 8.9 inch vat.
I peel slow for the first 3mm then speed up. Printing .1mm layer heights.
Related is plunge speeds...maybe less critical but want to not distort fine thin features with too much speed into resin.
I use about F80 for this too but again trying to build a formula based on min area.
I use 1 sec wait times after a plunge to allow resin to settle and the same 1 second wait after cure before motion to allow cure to complete.
I imagine softer resins might be slower while quick or very ridged ones could be faster.
Goal here is thin walls and fine unsupported features at reasonable angles will print well, secondary I don't want to waste time
going too slow or if details are such things are strong I can go reasonably fast....I am gettng build times of about 1CM an hour with my baseline settings,
how does that compare with others using 14sec or similar cure times? I have looked at the printers that cure very fast but cure is only part of the time
required...for me motion is about 50%
So any information you want to share would be helpful.
Thanks
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It depends on resin. But major force which require slow movement is the vacuum force.
Which require very slow movement on the first mm or so. Then it depends on resin and angle of the model.
It would be nice to come up with something in order to automate speed calculation.
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'coming up with something' is my plan...:)
I am just not sure how slow is too slow...my measurements say on my larger size 2mm generally is sufficient to release the model from the FEP
maybe it would be less on a larger bulkier model but towards the center there is alot of stretching.
I am not so sure that what is thought to be vacuum adhesion is all that significant.
The angle caused by the FEP distorting and peeling away seem to reduce vacuum issue and what I see seesm to be more about adhesion of material to FEP.
I guess it really doesn't matter why it is stuck only that we can peel it in a way that doesn't break or distort the model....if it is mostly vacuum the small
point contacts should peel easily (thus my formula to peal small areas slowly is less important)
Similarly thin walls should peel nicely too but that has not always been the case for me as I get wall gaps which is part of what started me down this road.
I'll post what I find...but still hoping for some knowledgeable people post what numbers the have found to work.
P.S. Obviously resin probably makes alot of difference however most standard types (not flexible etc) have kinda similar properties if when cured to that
point they are just hard enough to work and not over exposed where light bleed causes other distortions....the more opaque resins suffer less from this
I suppose. I wonder too if layer height makes a difference...I use .1 because that seems about the break even point for speed and quality on my
setup....(.5 and smaller maybe print a bit nicer if surface detail is very important but take longer)
For completeness I use mostly Phrozen and Elegoo ABS like resins, my go to for tougher working parts is Siraya Blu, and I have alot of WanHao resins for the more
translucent look but that is just what I have....along with samples of many others.
Last edited by macdarren (2020-05-26 00:26:33)
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